Hobart Dishwasher Error Codes

Hobart Dishwasher Error Codes: Troubleshooting & Fixes

Hobart commercial dishwashers are renowned for their stellar performance and durability in busy kitchens​. Even the most reliable machines can encounter issues, and Hobart has built-in error codes to help pinpoint problems quickly. When an error code pops up on your Hobart dishwasher error codes display, understanding what it means is crucial for fast diagnosis and minimal downtime. By interpreting the code correctly, you can identify the issue and correct it immediately.

In this guide, we’ll break down Hobart dishwasher error codes and provide step-by-step troubleshooting tips and fixes. From simple resets to part replacements, you’ll learn how to address errors effectively and keep your dishwasher running smoothly and you’ll even figure out what hobart dishwasher parts you might need.

Complete List of Hobart Dishwasher Error Codes

Below is a complete list of common Hobart dishwasher error codes, their meanings, and likely causes. The codes vary by model series (such as LXi, LXe undercounter units, or CL/CLe conveyor machines), so we’ve noted where certain codes apply. Use this table as a quick reference to diagnose what the code on your dishwasher signifies.

LXi & AM Select Undercounter Models (Numeric Error Codes)

These codes typically appear on Hobart LXi undercounter units (and similar models like AM Select door-type machines). They are usually prefixed with “E” followed by a number.

LXe Undercounter Models (Text Display Hobart Dishwasher Error Codes)

Newer Hobart LXe series dishwashers display error messages in text. Below are common error messages and their meanings:

CL & CLe Series Conveyor Dishwashers (Text Hobart Dishwasher Error Codes )

Large conveyor-type Hobart dishwashers (CL and CLe series) use text alerts for errors:

Hobart Ecomax Series Dishwashers (Numeric Codes)

Hobart’s Ecomax series (common in some regions) uses numeric error codes (often two digits). Here are the Ecomax codes and their meanings:

As you can see, some errors are straightforward (like a door open or clogged wash arm) that you can fix easily, while others involve sensor faults or electrical issues that might require professional service. In the next sections, we’ll go through step-by-step troubleshooting for the major error codes and explain how to fix common problems, including what replacement parts might be needed for each issue.

Step-by-Step Hobart Dishwasher Error Codes Troubleshooting Guide

In this section, we focus on how to confirm and troubleshoot each major error code or issue. For each category of error, we’ll outline specific diagnostic steps to pinpoint the problem. Always ensure the dishwasher is powered off and, if needed, disconnected from power before performing checks or repairs for safety.

1. Machine Not Filling (Errors E0, E2, E3, E4 or “Fill Error”)

When the dishwasher isn’t filling properly, it will display codes E0/E2/E3/E4 on older models or a “FILL ERROR” message on LXe models. Here’s how to troubleshoot a fill issue step by step:

1. Check Water Supply: Verify that the incoming water supply valve is fully open and the building water pressure meets Hobart’s requirements (typically 15–65 psi for undercounter models)​. Low or no water pressure will prevent proper filling. If a hose spigot or faucet feeds the machine, make sure it hasn’t been accidentally turned off​.

2. Examine the Inlet Strainer: Hobart dishwashers have a hose or solenoid inlet strainer to catch debris. If this strainer is clogged with sediment, it can starve the machine of water. Remove and clean the inlet screen if accessible. Likewise, ensure any standpipe or fill tube inside the machine is clear​ (so water can flow freely into the tank).

3. Look for Drain Valve Issues: A common cause of “not filling” is the drain valve being stuck open, which means water flows straight out. Hobart recommends turning the machine off and back on twice to help clear any drain valve obstructions if the unit won’t hold water​. With the machine off, inspect the drain valve for debris (like food scraps) that might be propping it open. Clear any blockage, then restart the dishwasher and see if it fills. You can test by starting a cycle and then opening the door to see if water is accumulating in the sump. If water still immediately drains out, the drain valve may be faulty and need replacement (covered in the Fixes section).

4. Inspect Fill Solenoid Valve: Listen for the “click” of the fill solenoid valve energizing when the cycle starts. If you do not hear water flowing, the fill valve might be failing. It could be clogged internally or its coil is burned out. You may need to remove the valve and inspect the internal screen for sediment. If the valve is receiving power but not opening, plan to replace it.

5. Check Water Level Probes (if equipped): Many Hobart models use metal probes or sensors to detect water level. If they become coated with scale or grease, they might falsely indicate “full” and shut off fill too early​. Open the dishwasher and locate the probes (for LXi/LXe, probes are often in the sump area or back of tank). Clean the probes by gently scrubbing with a Scotch-Brite pad until the metal is shiny​. Once clean, run the machine again to see if it fills to the correct level.

6. Ensure the Unit is Level: If the dishwasher is not level front-to-back and side-to-side, water may be pooling away from the sensor or overflowing at a low point. Use a level tool on the top of the machine. Adjust the levelling feet if needed to make the machine perfectly level. Hobart notes that an unlevelled machine can cause overfill or fill errors​. After leveling, close the doors and try the cycle again.

7. Reset and Test: After any adjustments, reset the error (put the machine in standby or cycle power) to clear the code, then start a new cycle. Monitor the fill. The water should reach the proper level and the wash cycle should commence without error.

If you’ve gone through these steps and the dishwasher still isn’t filling (error comes back), the issue may lie in a defective component (fill valve or sensor) that requires replacement. See Required Replacement Parts & Fixes below for guidance on part replacements.

2. Dishwasher Not Draining (Error E5 or “DRAIN ERROR”)

A failure to drain will show as E5 on older units or “DRAIN ERROR” on newer displays. Essentially, the machine thinks it cannot empty the wash water. Follow these steps to troubleshoot a drain issue:

1. Check for Kinks or Clogs in Drain Hose: Make sure the drain hose isn’t pinched, kinked, or blocked​. Trace the hose from the dishwasher to the sink drain or floor drain. Straighten out any kinks. If the dishwasher has an external stand-pipe or air gap, inspect it for clogs. A blocked drain line is often the culprit for an E5 error.

2. Inspect and Clean the Drain Strainer: Open the dishwasher and remove the scrap screen or drain strainer in the bottom. Food debris or foreign objects can accumulate and block the drain outlet. Clean out the strainer and drain sump area of any debris. Ensure nothing large is lodged in the drain opening. After cleaning, reassemble the strainer properly (seated in place) to allow flow​.

3. Listen for the Drain Pump: On undercounter models, when a drain cycle is initiated, you should hear the drain pump motor running and water gurgling out. If you hear the pump but draining is slow, there may still be a partial clog further down the line – try flushing the drain hose with water or air. If you do not hear the drain pump at all, the pump may not be activating. It could be an electrical issue (control not sending power) or a failed pump motor.

4. Cycle Power to the Machine: Sometimes the control board may need a reset. Turn the dishwasher off, wait a few seconds, and turn it back on, then try a manual drain (many Hobart units drain when turned off, or have a drain button). Doing this a couple of times can clear minor control. Watch the error display – if it clears after a reset and manual drain, run a test cycle to see if the error reappears.

5. Verify Drain Valve Operation (if applicable): Some Hobart models use a drain solenoid valve instead of or in addition to a pump. Ensure that the solenoid is energizing during the drain. A stuck shut drain valve will prevent water from leaving. If you suspect the drain valve, you can often manually actuate it (when the machine is off) to see if it moves freely. A valve jammed with debris might need cleaning or replacement.

6. Examine the Drain Pump Impeller: If you have access to the drain pump, check that the impeller isn’t jammed by broken glass, seeds, or other hard debris. A jammed impeller could hum but not turn. Clear any obstructions if found. (Always disconnect power before accessing the pump.)

7. Run a Drain Test: Fill the dishwasher with some water (a few gallons) either via a cycle or manually, then activate a drain cycle. Time how long it takes to evacuate. Most commercial units should drain a full tank in under a minute. If it’s much slower or not complete, you still have a restriction or a weak pump. Continue investigating or proceed to part replacement if needed.

After performing these steps, clear the error and test the machine. If the DRAIN ERROR (E5) persists, you likely need to replace a component (such as the drain pump or valve). Refer to the Fixes section for guidance on replacing these parts.

3. Water Level Sensor Fault (Errors E6, E7 or “Sump/Booster Level Sensor” Error)

Codes E6 and E7, or messages like “SUMP LEVEL SENSOR” / “BOOSTER LEVEL SENSOR,” indicate the dishwasher’s control is getting bad readings from the water level sensors. The machine will usually halt when these errors occur to avoid overfilling or other hazards. Here’s how to troubleshoot sensor-related errors:

1. Understand the Sensors: Hobart undercounter machines often have 2–3 water level sensors. Older models use steel probe rods at different heights; newer LXe models use pressure transducers for the wash sump and booster. An E6 error means a probe or sensor isn’t behaving as expected​ (could be sensing “water” when there is none, or vice versa). E7 is similar, possibly an out-of-range condition on another sensor.

2. Clean All Water Level Probes (for probe-type systems): Mineral scale or detergent film on probes is the #1 cause of sensor errors. Even if you cleaned them earlier, do it again thoroughly. There may be a single probe in the sump and a dual-probe assembly at the back for high/low level​. Scrub each metal rod with a pad until it’s bright. Also clean the plastic insulators around them​. After cleaning, restart the machine and see if the error clears.

3. Inspect Wiring Connections: A water level sensor will have wiring to the control board. If you can access the control panel, check that all sensor wires or plugs are securely connected and not damaged. A loose connection can simulate a bad sensor reading. (Turn off power before accessing the control.) Secure any loose connectors and try running the unit again.

4. Bypass Test (Advanced): This is a diagnostic step only for experienced technicians: On probe systems, you can simulate water by grounding the probe circuit. On pressure sensor systems, you’d use a multimeter or test box to simulate normal pressure. These tests can confirm if the control board reacts correctly or if the sensor itself is faulty. Because of the complexity, if basic cleaning and checks don’t solve an E6/E7, it’s often best to call an authorised Hobart service technician​.

5. Check for Overfills or Leaks: Sometimes an E6/E7 might accompany an overfill condition (water where it shouldn’t be). Open the machine – is the water level extremely high, or do you see water in the bottom pan (on floor under machine)? If so, the sensor might be fine but an overfill occurred (possibly a stuck fill valve or other mechanical issue causing overflow). In such cases, fix the mechanical cause (like a fill valve – see fixes section) and drain the machine. The sensor error may clear once normal conditions are restored.

6. Reset the Machine: After any sensor troubleshooting, reset the unit (power off/on) to clear the error code. Run a cycle under close observation. If it completes without the E6/E7, you likely resolved it. If the error still comes back immediately, the sensor is likely bad.

Note: E6 errors often require replacing the faulty sensor probe or pressure switch. We cover replacement of a water level probe in the next section. When in doubt, do not let the machine run with persistent E6/E7 errors – it could overfill or not fill at all. It’s safest to have it serviced if the cause isn’t obvious.

4. Overfill or Leaking from Door (Error CL/Pr or Similar)

If your Hobart displays “CL/Pr” or you notice water leaking out around the door, the unit is overfilling. This may also show up as a “Wash tank water level is too high” error on some models. Take these steps:

1. Pause and Drain: Immediately stop the machine (open the door or hit the stop button) to prevent flooding. Then initiate a drain to remove the excess water. You’ll be troubleshooting with the machine mostly empty of water.

2. Check Machine Leveling: Verify that the dishwasher is level on the floor. Use a level on the top edges. If it’s tilted forward, even a correct fill volume can slosh out the front. Adjust the levelling legs as needed to eliminate any tilt​. After leveling, close the door and start a fill to see if leaking still occurs.

3. Inspect the Door Gasket and Surfaces: Sometimes “leaking from door” is simply a worn or damaged door seal. Examine the rubber gasket around the door frame for cracks, tears, or compression. If damaged, replace the gasket. Also ensure nothing (like cutlery) is stuck preventing the door from sealing fully.

4. Clean the Water Level Probes: Overfill can be caused by dirty probes not sensing water soon enough. (This is the inverse of the fill problem – if probes are insulated by scale, the machine overfills because it “thinks” water level is low.) Make sure the probes are clean (refer to the cleaning method in step 3 above) so they accurately detect when to stop filling​. Examine the Fill Valve for Stuck-Open: It’s possible the inlet (fill) solenoid valve is not closing when it should, allowing water to flow continuously. After the machine fills to the correct level and should stop, listen: do you hear water still running? If yes, manually shut off the water supply. A fill valve stuck open due to debris or a worn seat will cause overfill. In this case, the fill valve needs cleaning or replacement. Remove the valve and check for sediment caught in the diaphragm. Reassemble and test – if it still leaks by, replace the valve.

5. Check the Overflow Standpipe (if equipped): Some Hobart models have an overflow standpipe or drain that should divert excess water. Ensure it’s in place and not clogged. If the standpipe was removed (for draining) and not put back, the machine would effectively leak from that opening.

6. Resume Operation & Monitor: Once adjustments are made (clean probes, fixed valve, etc.), run the machine and watch the fill cycle. The water should stop below the door level (usually just covering the heating element or at a marked fill line). No water should be leaking out. The error code (if any) can be cleared by resetting the machine.

Overfill situations often tie back to fill valve failures or sensor issues. If the problem persists after these steps, consider replacing the fill valve and/or water level sensor. Continuing to run an overfilling dishwasher can cause serious water damage to surrounding areas and the machine’s electrical components, so resolve CL/Pr errors promptly.

5. Door Open Errors (AL2 code or “Door(s) Open”)

When the display says the door is open (or an AL2 error on some older models), it means the safety switch circuit isn’t satisfied. In other words, the machine “thinks” a door or hood is open and won’t start. How to troubleshoot:

1. Close All Doors Firmly: This might seem obvious, but check that the door is completely closed and latched. Some Hobart undercounters have a drift pin or magnetic switch that must align. Open and re-close the door with a bit of force to ensure it seats fully. On conveyor machines, check both the wash chamber door and the inspection doors. The “Door(s) Open” alert won’t clear until every door is closed​.

2. Inspect Door Switches: Locate the door safety switch or sensor. On undercounters, this is often a small plunger or lever near the top or bottom of the door frame; on larger machines, there may be multiple mechanical or magnetic switches. Press the switch by hand (with the machine off) and see if it clicks. If a switch seems stuck or loose, that could be the problem. For magnetic reed switches, make sure the magnet on the door and the sensor on the frame line up when closed.

3. Bypass Test (for diagnosis only): Safety note: This is for testing ONLY. You can gently press and hold the door switch with the door open (or use a magnet for magnetic types) to see if the machine will start. If it does, then the switch wasn’t being activated by the door – perhaps the door is misaligned or the switch needs adjustment/replacement. Do not run a full cycle this way (water will splash out); it’s just to confirm the switch functionality.

4. Adjust or Replace the Door Switch: If you suspect the switch is faulty (e.g., the machine still says “door open” even when you press the switch in), it may need replacement. Sometimes the switch can be adjusted – for example, bending a lever slightly so it contacts the door better, or shimming a magnet closer to the sensor. Try adjustments first. If unsuccessful, see the Fixes section for replacing the door switch.

5. Check Hinges and Door Alignment: In some cases, a sagging door (due to worn hinges) might not press the switch properly. Lift the door slightly and see if the error goes away. If yes, the hinges or hinge pin might be worn and should be replaced or tightened.

6. Reset and Test: After addressing the likely cause, close everything up and reset the dishwasher (turn off and on). The door error should clear. Start a cycle – if the error does not reappear and the machine runs, you’ve fixed it. If “Door Open” pops up again, re-inspect for another switch you might have missed (some machines have multiple interlocks in series).

Safety interlocks are important – never permanently bypass a door switch. The goal is to fix the underlying issue so that the machine only runs when closed properly.

6. Wash Arm or Conveyor Jam Alerts (“WASH ARM ALERT” / “Clear Conveyor Jam”)

Modern Hobart dishwashers can detect when the wash arm isn’t turning or when the conveyor is jammed. These issues are usually mechanical. Here’s how to troubleshoot them:

For “WASH ARM ALERT” (undercounter or door-type models):

1. Open the Dishwasher and Remove Racks: Take out any dish racks so you can freely access the spray arms. Often a heavily loaded rack might block the arm if something tall is sticking down. Remove that variable first.

2. Spin the Wash Arm by Hand: Gently rotate the lower (and upper, if applicable) wash arm. It should spin freely with minimal resistance. If it doesn’t, look for what’s causing the obstruction. Common causes are a piece of silverware or broken glass lodged in the arm or caught between the arm and the tank. Remove any foreign object blocking the arm.

3. Check for Clogged Nozzles: Debris can also clog the spray holes in the wash arm, preventing it from turning (water can’t spray out one side, so it won’t spin). Inspect each nozzle on the arm for clogs – oftentimes seeds, labels, or food particles get stuck. Clean out the wash arm nozzles with a toothpick or brush​. Additionally, ensure the end caps on the arm (if removable) are tight; if an end cap fell off, it could disrupt pressure.

4. Verify Water Pressure Inside: If the arm still doesn’t spin, it could be due to insufficient water pressure in the wash cycle (less common). Run a cycle with the door open just a crack (to defeat the door switch with a trick, if possible) and see if water is spraying forcefully. Low pump pressure might point to a clogged pump strainer or impeller issue. Clean the pump strainer and try again.

5. Examine Wash Arm Bushings: The wash arm usually sits on a bearing or bushing that allows it to rotate. If that bushing is worn or encrusted with scale, the arm may stick. Remove the wash arm (many Hobart arms have a thumb screw or clip) and inspect the pivot point. Clean off any scale buildup on the post and inside the hub of the arm. If the bushing is cracked or very loose, replacing the wash arm assembly might be necessary.

6. Reassemble and Test: Put the wash arm back and ensure it is seated correctly. Run the machine and see if the “WASH ARM ALERT” clears. Hobart LXe models will often give on-screen instructions after a wash arm alert, so follow those as well​ (usually instructing to check and clear obstructions, then press a button to acknowledge). The error will reset once the arm is spinning normally.

For “Clear Conveyor Jam” (rack conveyor models):

1. Hit the Stop Button: Immediately stop the conveyor mechanism to avoid any damage. Usually, the machine stops itself when it senses a jam, but ensure it’s not trying to push through.

2. Open Access Doors: Lift the hood or open the side panels to inspect the conveyor path. (Be cautious of any steam or hot water.)

3. Identify the Jam: Look along the conveyor chain or rail for the rack that is stuck. Often it’s due to a utensil or pan that fell and jammed the moving parts, or a rack loaded improperly causing it to wedge. Remove any dishes or obstructions that are caught. If a rack is crooked and stuck, carefully lift and straighten it out.

4. Remove the Jammed Rack: If a dish rack itself is the source of jam (caught on something), remove that rack from the machine entirely. In some cases, you might have to manually advance the conveyor a little. Many Hobart conveyors have a manual advance handle or you can gently pull the chain (power off) to free the rack.

5. Inspect the Conveyor Track and Switches: Check that the conveyor track is clear of debris and that any limit switches (which detect rack positions) are not damaged. Sometimes a broken piece of a rack or a utensil can get lodged in the track after a jam – clear these out. Ensure the “end-of-conveyor” limit switch (table limit) is not stuck, as that can also stop the machine if it thinks the exit is full.

6. Resume Operation: Close all doors and press Start to resume the conveyor. The message should clear if the jam is resolved. Watch a few racks go through to be sure everything is moving smoothly. If jams happen frequently, observe if it’s always at the same spot – this could indicate a bent guide rail or an issue with the conveyor mechanism that might need maintenance or part replacement.

These mechanical jams are usually resolved by good housekeeping: keeping wash arms clean and ensuring racks are loaded properly. In the next section, we’ll note any parts (like wash arms or bearings) that might need replacement if these problems persist.

7. Temperature & Heating Issues (Low Rinse Temp, “Temp Sensor” Errors, P1/P2/P3)

Temperature-related errors can be a bit tricky because while the dishwasher will often continue to run, your sanitization may be compromised. Common indications include “LOW RINSE TEMP” warnings, or the flashing P1/P2/P3 codesthat indicate heater sensor faults, or even an outright “Final Rinse Temp Low” message on conveyor models. Here’s how to approach these issues:

1. Verify Incoming Water Temperature: Hobart high-temp dishwashers rely on either an internal booster heater or the building’s hot water (or both) to reach the required final rinse temperature (typically 180°F/82°C for sanitizing rinse). If you see a low temperature warning, first check your hot water supply. It should be at least the minimum specified (e.g., 110°F for machines with booster, or ~140°F if no booster). If the building hot water is too low, the booster might struggle to compensate. Correct any issues with the water heater if found.

2. Monitor the Thermometers: Many commercial dishwashers have built-in temperature gauges for wash and rinse. During operation, watch these gauges. Are they reaching the setpoints? For example, if the rinse gauge is well below target (e.g., only 150°F when it should be 180°F), then the booster heater may not be heating. If the wash tank is cold (below 150°F for high-temp wash), the wash heater might be failing. This observation helps narrow down if it’s a wash tank issue or rinse/booster issue.

3. Check Heater Circuits: If you’re comfortable with electrical checks (and the power is off and locked out), inspect the heating element connections. A common cause of no heat is a burned-out heating element in the booster or tank. Look for any obvious breaks or charring on the heating coils (if visible) or use a multimeter to check continuity on the heater elements. Also verify any high-limit thermostats or reset buttons (some boosters have a safety thermostat that can trip if overheated – it might need a manual reset).

4. Temperature Sensor (Thermistor) Checks: The P1, P2, P3 error codes correspond to different temp sensors: typically P1 = wash tank sensor, P2 = booster sensor, P3 = possibly rinse or another sensor​. When these flash, the control has likely shut off the heater for safety​. The best troubleshooting for a sensor error is to locate that sensor in the machine (consult the service manual if needed) and examine it. Ensure it’s securely mounted in the tank and the wiring is intact. If you have a multimeter and the sensor specs, you can ohm it out to see if its resistance is in line with the expected value at room temperature. A sensor that is open or shorted electrically will need replacement.

5. Clean Off Scale from Sensors: Sometimes a temperature probe that is heavily coated in lime scale can lag in response, causing errors. If accessible, gently clean the probe surface. However, be careful not to bend or damage it.

6. Run a Diagnostic Cycle: After any adjustments (and resetting any tripped thermostat), run the machine to see if it heats up. If your machine has a service diagnostic mode, use it to test heaters. Otherwise, run a normal cycle and observe if the “Low Temp” warnings persist. For a conveyor machine that said “Final Rinse Temp Low,” ensure after your fixes that it now hits proper temperature (you might use a thermometer or thermal labels on a rack to confirm sanitizing temperature).

7. Call for Service if Needed: If the booster or tank simply isn’t heating and you cannot pinpoint whether it’s the element or the control, it’s time to involve a professional. There could be an issue with the contactor/relay or control board not sending power to the heater, which goes beyond simple troubleshooting. The error codes like 070/071 on some models (minimum wash/rinse temp not reached) also advise contacting Hobart service if they persist. Heating issues are critical for health-code compliance, so don’t ignore them.

For most operators, the practical fixes here are limited: you might replace a heating element or a temperature sensor if you have the parts and know-how. Otherwise, these errors may require a service tech. In the next section, we’ll list parts like heating elements and temperature probes which you might need to replace to fix these errors, along with general replacement instructions.

Required Replacement Parts & Fixes

After troubleshooting, you may find that certain components need to be replaced to fully resolve the error. In this section, we list common replacement parts for Hobart dishwashers and give clear instructions on how to replace them. Always use genuine OEM parts for reliability and safety​, and ensure the machine is disconnected from power and water before beginning any part replacement.

• Fill Solenoid Valve Replacement: If your dishwasher isn’t filling (and you’ve confirmed the valve isn’t opening or is stuck open causing overfill), you likely need a new fill valve. How to replace: First, turn off the water supply and unplug the dishwasher. Locate the fill valve (usually found where the inlet water line connects, often behind the lower front panel or underneath for undercounter units). Disconnect the water inlet hose from the valve and be prepared for a little water spillage with a towel. Unplug the electrical connectors from the valve coil. Remove the mounting screws or nut that hold the valve in place. Take out the old valve. Install the new OEM fill valve by securing it in the same position and reconnecting the water line tightly (use Teflon tape on threads if applicable to prevent leaks). Reattach the electrical connectors. After everything is in place, slowly turn on the water supply and check for leaks. Then restore power and test the dishwasher fill by running a cycle – the new valve should now allow water in when energized and shut off correctly.

• Drain Pump Replacement: For machines that won’t drain due to a failed pump, a replacement is needed. How to replace: Disconnect power. Access the pump – on undercounter units, you usually remove the front panel or lower kickplate to reach the pump at the bottom. Disconnect the wiring harness from the pump motor. Loosen the clamp holding the drain hose to the pump and detach the hose (prepare for water spillage from any remaining water in the line). The pump may be secured with bolts or simply mounted on rubber grommets – loosen any fasteners and twist/pull the pump out. Install the new drain pump by fitting it into position (ensure any seals or O-rings are correctly placed if it’s an inline pump). Reattach the drain hose with its clamp firmly (leaks here would be messy). Reconnect the electrical plug to the new pump. Before putting panels back, it’s wise to do a quick leak test: add some water to the machine (a bucketful) and then run a drain cycle to ensure the pump runs and no water leaks from the connections. Finally, replace the panels. Your dishwasher should now drain properly with the new pump.

• Drain Valve (Solenoid) Replacement: If the dishwasher has a drain solenoid valve that isn’t working (either stuck closed or open), replacing it can fix fill/drain errors. How to replace: After disconnecting power, locate the drain valve (usually a brass or plastic body valve with a solenoid coil, connected to the drain line). It might be mounted underneath the machine. Note how it’s wired (take a photo) then unplug the wires. Mechanically, the valve can be bolted to the frame or attached via pipe fittings. If it’s bolted, remove the bolts. If threaded into piping, you’ll need to unscrew it (use channel-lock pliers or a wrench on the valve body and the pipe, taking care not to stress other connections). Once removed, take any old thread seal tape off the pipes. Install the new drain valve by threading it onto the pipe (use fresh plumber’s tape on threads) or bolting it in, as applicable. Make sure it’s oriented the same way (flow direction). Reconnect any outlet drain hose if it uses one, tightening the clamp. Connect the wires to the solenoid terminals just as they were on the old one. Restore power and run a test fill/drain. Listen for the “click” of the solenoid at the appropriate times and verify the drain now works without leaks.

• Water Level Float or Probe Replacement: If you suspect the water level sensor is bad (continued E6/E7 errors even after cleaning), you can replace the probe or float assembly. How to replace: Open the dishwasher door to access the interior. For float types (like in conveyors), find the float assembly (usually a cylindrical plastic float and a vertical guide). It might unscrew or release with a clip. Remove the old float and any bracket. Disconnect the wire from the float switch (if there is a separate switch). Install the new float assembly by reversing the steps (ensure the float moves freely up and down). For probe types in undercounters, the probes typically unscrew from the inside of the tank (they have hex nuts at their base). Unscrew the defective probe rod (you may need to do this from inside the tank while holding the nut on the outside bottom to avoid twisting wires). Once loose, carefully pull it out and disconnect its wire lead. Put the new probe in place, reconnect the wire, and tighten the nut to make a watertight seal (do not over-tighten and crack the insulator). After replacement, test the dishwasher – fill it and see if the new sensor correctly detects levels (the machine should stop filling at the right point and not give error codes).

• Door Switch Replacement: If the machine isn’t recognizing the door being closed, a new door switch (interlock) might be required. How to replace: Identify how to access the door switch – typically from the front control panel area or by removing a top trim. Once you have access, you’ll see the switch assembly where the door meets the frame. Note the wiring configuration, then disconnect the wires. The switch could be held by screws or clips; remove whatever fastening mechanism is present and take out the old switch. Insert the new door switch in the same orientation and secure it. Attach the wires to the correct terminals (using the photo or notes you took – door switches often have normally open/closed terminals, so correct wiring is important). Close up the panel and test the door: close it and see if the “door open” message is gone and the machine starts. You should hear the click of the new switch as the door closes. If needed, adjust its position slightly so it triggers perfectly when the door is shut.

• Wash Arm and Bearings: If you found a damaged wash arm or if its bearing is worn (the arm still isn’t spinning after cleaning), you may need a new wash arm assembly or bushing. How to replace: Most Hobart wash arms can be removed by unscrewing a thumb nut or cap at the center. Take off the old arm. If there’s a separate bearing piece on the hub, remove that as well. Install the new wash arm (and new bearing if provided) by placing it onto the hub and re-securing the cap/nut. Ensure it’s not over-tightened – the arm should spin freely. Double-check that any washers or seals are in place per the parts diagram. Once replaced, run a cycle to verify that the arm now spins and the alert doesn’t recur.

• Heating Element Replacement (Wash Tank or Booster): This is a more involved replacement but common if the unit can’t reach temperature. How to replace: Disconnect power and shut off any applicable breakers – heating elements run on high voltage. Access the heating element: for undercounter units, the wash tank element is usually under the tank (accessible by removing panels or flipping the machine on its back, if small). The booster heater element could be inside a booster tank on the side. Once accessed, disconnect the wiring from the element terminals (label the wires). Remove the nuts or bolts holding the element flange in place. Gently pull out the old element – it may be long and in a curved shape, so take care not to snag wires. Clean the gasket surface where it seals. Insert the new element (with a new gasket if required) into the opening. Secure it with the nuts/bolts evenly to avoid leaks (tighten in a crisscross pattern if multiple bolts). Reconnect the wires to the correct terminals. Close everything up and fill the tank with water before turning the element on (to avoid dry-firing it). Then turn the machine on and observe the temperature – it should now climb to the setpoint if the new element is functioning. Also check for any leaks around the new element seal.

• Temperature Sensor (Thermistor) Replacement: If you had a P1/P2/P3 error or a bad probe reading, you might replace the sensor. How to replace: The sensor is usually a small bulb or probe mounted in the wash tank or booster (often secured by a compression fitting or bracket). Locate the sensor (consult parts diagram if needed). Disconnect it from the control board (wires leading from the sensor to the board or a connector – unplug those). Remove the old sensor – this could involve unscrewing a small threaded fitting or simply pulling out a probe held by a clip. Be careful not to damage the threading or the mounting hole. Install the new sensor in the same location, ensuring any gasket or sealing surface is correct to prevent water leaks. Tighten any compression nut snugly (do not over-tighten a delicate sensor). Reconnect the wires to the board or connector exactly as before. Once in place, power on the machine and test a cycle – the control should now get proper temperature readings and any sensor fault code should clear.

Throughout any part replacement, refer to your Hobart service manual for specifics like torque values or sealant requirements. If a replaced part fixes the issue, the error code should not reappear and your dishwasher should operate normally. Always perform a test cycle after a repair, checking for leaks or abnormalities, and keep an eye on the machine the first few runs to ensure everything is stable.

Preventative Maintenance Tips to minimise Hobart Dishwasher Error Codes

Preventing errors is always better than fixing them after the fact. Hobart dishwashers, like all commercial units, benefit from regular maintenance to keep them running without hiccups. Here are some preventative maintenance tips to avoid future breakdowns and error codes:

• Clean Strainers and Filters Daily: Make it a end-of-day routine to remove, rinse, and clean out the machine’s food strainer pans and scrap screens. Clogged strainers impede water flow and can cause both fill and drain problems​. Keeping them clean ensures proper water circulation and prevents debris from reaching pumps or valves.

• Routine Descaling: If you have hard water, limescale will build up on the heating element, tank, and sensors. Run a descale cycle regularly as recommended (your dishwasher might remind you with “Descale Required” after a set number of cycles)​. Use a proper descale agent per Hobart’s instructions​. Regular descaling keeps water level probes and heating elements functioning correctly and extends their life.

• Inspect and Clean Wash/Rinse Arms: At least weekly (or more in high-use environments), remove the wash and rinse arms and clean out all nozzles. It’s easy for seeds, toothpicks, and debris to lodge in spray holes, which can reduce cleaning performance. Also spin the arms to ensure the bearings are smooth. This prevents “wash arm alert” situations and ensures your dishes come out clean.

• Check Water Supply and Pressure: Periodically verify that the incoming water lines are in good shape – no kinks, and the pressure is consistent. If you notice fluctuating pressure in your building, consider a regulator. Also clean the water inlet screen (where the hose connects) every few months, especially if you know your water has sediment. This avoids fill-time errors due to restricted flow.

• Drain and Flush the Machine: Even if your Hobart has an automatic drain, it’s good practice to fully drain and flush the tank with fresh water at least once per day (often at closing time) beyond the normal cycle draining. This prevents excessive soil buildup in the tank and ensures the next day starts with clean water. Residual soil can cause sensor errors (dirty water can fool sensors) and leads to “Change Water” if not addressed.

• Check Detergent and Rinse Aid Systems: While not directly an “error code” issue, if your machine has automatic detergent and rinse aid pumps, make sure they are maintained. Refill chemicals promptly when empty to avoid concentration issues. Clean the chemical lines and pickup tubes so the machine doesn’t run dry – some Hobart models might show warnings if detergent or sanitizer isn’t being sensed. Keeping these systems working ensures optimal performance and avoids extra stress on the machine (like running with improper detergent can cause excessive foam or corrosion).

• Regular Professional Service: At least once a year, have an authorized Hobart technician perform a preventative maintenance check. They will calibrate sensors, check motor brushes (if applicable), test the heating elements’ amperage draw, and replace worn gaskets or seals. This can catch issues before they trigger error codes during a busy dinner service.

• Use Quality Parts and Supplies: Use OEM replacement parts for any components you change – they fit correctly and last longer​. Also use the recommended type of detergent and sanitizer for your model. Using improper chemicals can damage probes and gaskets (for example, high-chlorine detergents can pit stainless steel and ruin sensors). Following Hobart’s guidelines for chemicals will avoid long-term damage.

• Keep It Clean and Dry Overnight: At closing, prop the door open to let the machine air out. Wipe down the interior, including the door gasket, to prevent mold or deterioration. A dry interior overnight helps avoid funky odors and preserves rubber seals. A well-cleaned machine is less likely to have drain clogs or sensor fouling.

By implementing these preventative steps, you’ll ensure that your Hobart dishwasher operates at peak performance with minimal unexpected errors. Regular maintenance not only prevents many error codes from ever appearing but also prolongs the life of the machine, which is a significant investment for your kitchen​. Hobart dishwashers are built to last, and with a little care, you can avoid most emergencies and enjoy consistent, trouble-free service.

Hobart dishwashers are high-quality, workhorse machines, and understanding their error codes helps you troubleshoot issues quickly and accurately. We’ve covered the full spectrum of Hobart dishwasher error codes – from simple fixes like closing a door or cleaning a wash arm, to deeper diagnostics like replacing valves and sensors. Always remember to address the root cause of an error to prevent it from recurring. And when replacing components, insist on genuine Hobart OEM parts for reliability and safety​. Using the correct parts and following the proper repair procedures will ensure your machine runs optimally and meets health standards.

If an issue is beyond what you’re comfortable repairing, don’t hesitate to contact an authorized Hobart service technician​. Certain complex problems (like persistent electrical errors or control board issues) are best handled by professionals to avoid downtime.

Finally, as a proactive step, implement the preventative maintenance tips above. Regular cleaning and care not only prevent most error codes but also save you money and hassle in the long run. A well-maintained Hobart dishwasher will provide years of reliable service, keeping your kitchen operations smooth.

Next Steps: If you need any replacement part discussed in this guide – whether it’s a fill valve, heating element, gasket, or sensor – be sure to check out our Hobart spare parts or our more general dishwasher spare parts page. We carry a full range of OEM Hobart parts to help you fix any issue quickly. By using the right parts and following this troubleshooting guide, you’ll minimise downtime and keep your dishwasher in top shape. Don’t let a simple error code disrupt your operations – armed with this knowledge, you can tackle most Hobart dishwasher errors head-on and keep the dishes clean and your business running efficiently.